Vitamin C Esters: Are ATIP and THDA the Same Thing?

THDA ATIP structures

Vitamin C is an amazing skincare active, but ascorbic acid can be annoying in products. That’s why vitamin C derivatives were developed – these are slightly altered versions of ascorbic acid that can get around these issues (irritation, instability, stained fingers, fake tan smell). Two of the INCI names for derivatives that you might’ve seen on ingredient lists are ascorbyl …

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Impressively Bad Skincare Science: Matter of Fact (with Video)

Matter of Fact thumbnail

You might’ve seen Matter of Fact skincare all over social media lately. Their star product is a vitamin C serum, and they’ve been doing a lot of sponsorships with influencers, particularly the ones that come across as “sciencey” (with a science background and/or make scientific skincare content). You might’ve been surprised to see me in one of their influencer ads …

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Favourite Moisturiser? Lagom, Atopalm, Neogen Reviews (with video)

lagom cellus products

I recently reviewed a bunch of Korean products from Lagom, Atopalm and Neogen for a sponsored video with StyleKorean. Unlike my usual collaborations with online stores, they chose the products for me, which I was initially a bit skeptical about. But to my pleasant surprise (and honestly, relief) they chose some products that suited my skin and had some really …

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Good Molecules’ “Nothing to Hide” Ingredient Lists: A Critique

good molecules thumbnail

Good Molecules is a brand with a pretty unique marketing strategy – they show their ingredient lists with the percentages of all the ingredients, saying they have “nothing to hide”.  They claim this is a “new level of transparency”, and that they hope that others in the industry will do the sameā€¦ but is that really transparent?  The YouTube video …

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Skincare Oils and Free Fatty Acids: The Science (with video)

Video: Skincare Oils and Free Fatty Acids: The Science

If you’re a skincare nerd, you may know that different skincare oils have different fatty acid profiles – that is, they differ in terms of which fatty acids they contain e.g. linoleic, linolenic, oleic and lauric acid. The fatty acids have interesting properties. For example, lauric acid is strongly antibacterial, and works better than benzoyl peroxide against Cutibacterium acnes bacteria. …

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5 Skincare Myths Ruining Your Skin (with video)

5 Myths Ruining Your Skin

You buy all the products, you put them on your face… and then your skin gets worse? Rude. Today we’re busting five skincare myths that are ruining your skin – and I swear I’m not just going to talk about wearing sunscreen every day. Video is here on YouTube, keep scrolling for the text version… Myth 1: High concentrations are …

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