The Science of Hair Products: Shampoo and Conditioner (with video)

This post is based on a sponsored video. Sulfates, fatty alcohols, silicones, preservatives… what are they doing in your shampoo and conditioner, and do you need to avoid them? Today’s post is a deep dive into some of the key ingredients in haircare products. The video version is here if you prefer that format! Science of Shampoo Let’s start with …

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Reacting to Your Unpopular Opinions (Video)

I asked on Instagram for all your unpopular opinions a short while back, and filmed a chatty video discussing a handful of them – check it out here!  Topics covered: 0:19 Body moisturisers are good face moisturisers 1:10 Skincare is unnecessary 2:32 Physical exfoliation is terrible for sensitive skin 5:20 Hyaluronic acid causes inflammation 8:23 Hyaluronic acid dries skin out …

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Vitamin C Esters: Are ATIP and THDA the Same Thing?

THDA ATIP structures

Vitamin C is an amazing skincare active, but ascorbic acid can be annoying in products. That’s why vitamin C derivatives were developed – these are slightly altered versions of ascorbic acid that can get around these issues (irritation, instability, stained fingers, fake tan smell). Two of the INCI names for derivatives that you might’ve seen on ingredient lists are ascorbyl …

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Impressively Bad Skincare Science: Matter of Fact (with Video)

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Update (14/9/2022): Dr Julian Sass (@scamander14 on Instagram), a biostatistician and full-time employee of Matter of Fact (Director of R&D and Education) has publicly accused me of bullying him in a video on his Instagram and Twitter. My response is here: Response to accusations of bullying from Julian (@scamander14) Relevant to this post and Matter of Fact: Interestingly he didn’t …

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Favourite Moisturiser? Lagom, Atopalm, Neogen Reviews (with video)

lagom cellus products

I recently reviewed a bunch of Korean products from Lagom, Atopalm and Neogen for a sponsored video with StyleKorean. Unlike my usual collaborations with online stores, they chose the products for me, which I was initially a bit skeptical about. But to my pleasant surprise (and honestly, relief) they chose some products that suited my skin and had some really …

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Good Molecules’ “Nothing to Hide” Ingredient Lists: A Critique

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Good Molecules is a brand with a pretty unique marketing strategy – they show their ingredient lists with the percentages of all the ingredients, saying they have “nothing to hide”.  They claim this is a “new level of transparency”, and that they hope that others in the industry will do the same… but is that really transparent?  The YouTube video …

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Skincare Oils and Free Fatty Acids: The Science (with video)

Video: Skincare Oils and Free Fatty Acids: The Science

If you’re a skincare nerd, you may know that different skincare oils have different fatty acid profiles – that is, they differ in terms of which fatty acids they contain e.g. linoleic, linolenic, oleic and lauric acid. The fatty acids have interesting properties. For example, lauric acid is strongly antibacterial, and works better than benzoyl peroxide against Cutibacterium acnes bacteria. …

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5 Skincare Myths Ruining Your Skin (with video)

5 Myths Ruining Your Skin

You buy all the products, you put them on your face… and then your skin gets worse? Rude. Today we’re busting five skincare myths that are ruining your skin – and I swear I’m not just going to talk about wearing sunscreen every day. Video is here on YouTube, keep scrolling for the text version… Myth 1: High concentrations are …

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