“Plastic-free” is the new clean beauty: a treatise

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I recently came across a Threads post from @idea.soup that said: “I don’t have any evidence for it but I have a weird feeling the anti-polyester movement is about to become a right-wing pipeline” This was a lightbulb moment for me!  I started doing scicomm in 2011 because I realised the “non-toxic” clean beauty movement could be a pipeline to …

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Investigating the viral heat protectant test

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There’s been a lot of people testing heat protectants on receipts lately. You spray a heat protectant on a thermal paper receipt, then use a flat iron hair straightener on it. Since receipt paper turns black with heat, the receipts that stay white have the more effective heat protectants… … Or so the logic goes, anyway. But does this test …

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Should you avoid retinyl palmitate in sunscreens?

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Does retinyl palmitate in sunscreens increase skin cancer? This is a myth that’s been promoted a lot by clean beauty organisations like the Environmental Working Group (EWG), especially in their annual sunscreen guide. More recently, this was included as the first point in toxicologist Dr Yvonne Burkart’s video: “You’ve been lied to about sunscreen: Toxicologist reveals 6 things you should …

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Is red light safe for hyperpigmentation and melasma?

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Since my post on the science behind red light treatments, many people have asked me if light treatments make hyperpigmentation worse. This is a bit complicated to untangle, given the relative lack of data and the huge diversity of red light products. So this post is somewhat speculative – but I hope it’s helpful if you’ve been wondering! Note: I’m …

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Is synthetic braiding hair giving people cancer? Breaking down Consumer Reports’ tests

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Is synthetic braiding hair giving people cancer? In February 2025, Consumer Reports announced that they had found carcinogens in all 10 products of artificial braiding hair they tested. They claimed this was putting the health of wearers and braiders at risk. But is this actually true, or is it fearmongering?  Here’s the video version – keep scrolling for the article. Overblown …

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The science of red light masks

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Red light is everywhere – you’ll see it used by celebrities, skincare influencers, and biohackers (not sure why male wellness influencers get their own special name). What does it do, and which products actually work? Let’s dig into the science behind red light therapy, or photobiomodulation. The video version of this post was part of a 3-way collaboration with Becky …

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Sunscreen safety and the FDA situation: Huberman’s skincare podcast response (Part 2)

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The most controversial topic in Dr Andrew Huberman’s skincare episode is probably sunscreen safety, which is hugely misunderstood even by scientists and medical doctors. Much of the confusion comes from differing sunscreen regulations around the world, and the fact that “not safe” has different meanings in everyday, regulatory and toxicological contexts. This is part 2 of my articles responding to …

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Physical barriers for sun protection? Huberman’s skincare podcast response (Part 1)

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A little while back, Dr Andrew Huberman, a Stanford neuroscientist with a massive podcast, released an episode called “How to Improve Skin Health & Appearance”. It had a bunch of slightly weird recommendations if you’re familiar with skincare science. He mentioned some of his sources, but didn’t have any experts talking. 1.5 months later, he released another skin episode, this …

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