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There’s a lot of misinformation about how “medical grade”, “clinical” or “professional” skincare products are guaranteed to be better than drugstore or “over-the-counter” (OTC) products you can buy at the supermarket.
Like a lot of other myths, this myth has mostly been promoted by some well-intentioned people who have unfortunately been fed the wrong information by brands who know better (or should know better, if they’re not being negligent).
But there are also a lot of people (mostly estheticians based in the US, it seems) who use this myth to bully and belittle other people: for “ruining their skin” by using non-medical-grade products in their routines, or for being stupid enough to believe that non-medical-grade products can achieve results, or for not having the means to pay for more expensive products.
This is shitty behaviour even if it was the truth, but since it’s a myth, it’s even worse. While this myth might not be as directly harmful as, say, myths about sunscreen being dangerous, it’s definitely a myth that leads to harm. So let’s bust it.
Why do people claim that “medical-grade skincare” is better?
(Note: We’re talking about products you buy and use at home, not peels etc. that can only be used in certain clinics.)
“The FDA regulates medical-grade skincare differently”
A lot of the confusion comes from the frequently-promoted idea that there’s an official difference between how medical-grade skincare and “over-the-counter” (meaning drugstore) skincare are approved by the FDA, or other government regulatory authorities. This isn’t the case.
In the US, the vast majority of skincare products fall into the cosmetic category, which means they don’t require regulatory approval or proof of efficacy (outside of not containing banned ingredients, or restrictions on ingredient concentrations) whether they’re medical-grade or not. This is also the case in most places around the world.
The confusion partly comes from the fact that “over-the-counter” is a term used in drug regulation to describe drugs that can be bought without a prescription, like sunscreen, aspirin, cough medicine and antihistamines. In contrast, prescription medications require a prescription from an appropriately authorised health professional, like a doctor or nurse practitioner. Both over-the-counter drugs and prescription drugs are regulated by authorities like the FDA or TGA.
There are a few skincare products that are usually regulated as drugs. For example, there are prescription-only tretinoin and tazarotene creams, and over-the-counter sunscreen, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, salicylic acid and adapalene products. Ironically, these are usually found in drugstores rather than in “medical-grade” ranges.
Related post: My Routine for Starting on Tretinoin (Retin-A) Cream
For drugs, depending on the actives and the claim, testing methods differ – some products aren’t tested for efficacy (e.g. benzoyl peroxide products just need to contain a certain percentage). Products that are regulated as drugs will be clearly labelled. For example, in the US, there will be a “Drug Facts” label, and in Australia there will be an AUST R or AUST L number and active ingredient concentrations on the front. In some countries (Japan, Korea), cosmeceuticals and quasi-drugs are regulated in addition to drugs, but again these will be clearly labelled.
So… “medical-grade” skincare IS “over-the-counter” skincare, since it isn’t prescription-only.
“There’s rigorous testing/clinical studies/research so it does what it says” “They use higher quality ingredients”
Because “medical-grade”, “professional” and “clinical” aren’t regulated terms, there’s no guarantee of any sort of testing.
Some medical-grade brands will do rigorous testing and clinical studies, but anyone can use the term “medical grade” and decide to only sell their products through skin clinics.
Many drugstore products will have rigorous testing and clinical studies too. Some of the ones regulated as drugs, like sunscreen, will have mandatory clinical trials. Many of the more dermatologist-friendly brands targeted at sensitive skin, like QV or Bioderma, will also have conducted clinical trials on their products.
“They contain higher percentages of actives” “They’re allowed to penetrate deeper than over the counter and drugstore products”
Unless they’re drugs, again there isn’t any regulatory difference. You can get the highest percentages of actives with brands like Paula’s Choice, The Ordinary, Drunk Elephant etc.
Medical-grade skincare is just like any other type of skincare. Whether they’re good, or effective, or worth the price, or have clinical studies to back up their effects has to be judged on a brand-by-brand or product-by-product basis.
Final Note
When I posted about this myth on Instagram, I had a bunch of estheticians tell me my opinion wasn’t worth shit and block me. I did also have lots of estheticians who thanked me, along with a few medical-grade brand educators, so no, it’s not attacking medical-grade brands or estheticians… just those who knowingly perpetuate this myth and use it to harass others.
So here are some reasons why perpetuating this myth is NOT a good idea, if you’re an esthetician:
- If a product is honestly amazing, it doesn’t need to be puffed up with myths about FDA regulation, or how deep they’re allowed to go into the skin, or how toxic drugstore products are, etc. If a product has worked wonders for you and others you know in the past, just say that! If there’s an amazing team of researchers and formulators who made it, if there are great B&A photos to back it up, if it has effective actives that you rarely find in other products – again, just say that.
- Deceptive marketing is unethical and illegal, and you can be reported for it.
- People who discover that they’ve been sold a myth tend not to be repeat customers.
go offff michelle!
Thank you!
Amen. Literature citations are not magical incantations brands can invoke to claim efficacy. Drunk Elephant is currently facing a class action suit about its Shaba Complex Eye Serum’s failure to deliver on claims. You should read the complaint. It alleges deceptive practices citing the oft-used language of US cosmetic brands such as “cell-communicating,” “skin identical,” and “promoting firmness.” Though it will likely go no further than pretrial it certainly puts sciencewashing under the lens of increased legal scrutiny.
This is a much needed blog. Thank you!
I hope to god this post is not sponsored by Drunk Elephant.
I’m not sure why you’re insinuating it is. Do I have a history of not disclosing sponsored posts? Do I have a history of being biased towards Drunk Elephant? Even if it was sponsored by them, is any part of this post inaccurate?
I hope to god your comment isn’t sponsored by internet bullies.
Tell it like it is, Michelle, and thank you for this post. Well done you. Cheers, Ardith
*facepalm* I am so sorry for comments like that, Michelle.
Brilliant article – I hope you don’t mind but I’ve shared this link in a private facebook skincare group (set up with ‘beautiful with brains) so others can read it.
Thank you so much for sharing it! Don’t mind in the slightest 😀
You are amazing! I SO appreciate your work & that you take the time to share & educate on these things. I have watched you for a long time & you have GREATLY helped me navigate these foggy waters. Stay strong dear one! Again, thank you! ❣️
Very helpful. Thanks so much, Michelle.
Thank you thank you thank you! I’ve been having this conversation with friends for ages and they do not believe me.
im sorry those estheticians attacked you. so not right
This esthetician thanks you! Exactly my thoughts, but unpopular on esthetician forums!
So glad yo keep harping on this issue – thank you!
Love your honesty.
Thank you for being so honest and educational! Anyone who who harass you for citing facts just cannot have honest intentions.
Thank you for this article. Very informative and easy to read for us laypeople. I also appreciate you not letting the internet hate stop you from getting the truth out there. It must be frustrating at times. Thanks again.
Thanks for writing this! 🙂 I’m also following you on instagram, where you post about those fake “sciency” things. But you break up those posts in the comments and the part 2, 3, etc are difficult to find when there are a lot of commenters. Can you transform those insta posts into blog posts? Thanks!
I will once they’re all posted! I’m glad you’re enjoying it 🙂
This is an absolutely brilliant post! Most consumers, and that includes me, do not have the background and facts, and assume that certain claims have specific meanings – which as it turns out, is a wrong assumption. Marketing companies, including big companies and “natural” beauty companies, take advantage of that. I know that I have fallen for these claims. Thank you for this.
I love your courage!! Thank you for being so honest and for sharing this very informative post!
So is there any makeup that is actually good for your skin with great application results as well?
I agree that there are a lot of great products not necessarily fund in a medical spa . But I attended a lot of trainings and there are a lot of companies that do sell more concentrated products to medical facilities. The same company’s have a line of products for a regular spa and another line of products ( more concentrated, stronger ingredients) for medical spa. Always read the labels and become an educated consumer so you can make a best decision for yourself.
Could you provide the research that refutes these claims?
These aren’t claims that you need peer-reviewed research to refute. It’s like saying “Cats called Barry are smarter than all other cats,” then when someone calls you out on that, you ask them to provide research to refute your claim.
Great read. Thanks for all the work you put in!