In a recent video, I talked about the advantages and disadvantages of organic (chemical) vs inorganic (physical) sunscreens. One of the big drawbacks of inorganic sunscreens is that they tend to have significant white cast, which is when the sunscreen leaves a white layer on your skin. Out of the two inorganic filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide), titanium dioxide tends to give a stronger white cast. It’s also more photoreactive and doesn’t give much protection against UVA, so zinc oxide tends to be the more popular choice.
While my preference is for organic sunscreens, a lot of people like inorganic sunscreens (often due to sensitivities to organic sunscreens). I decided to review three popular inorganic zinc oxide-only sunscreens in Australia to see if I was missing out.
The three contenders:
Neutrogena Sheer Zinc Face Lotion SPF 50
- $19.99 AUD per 59 mL ($0.34 per mL)
- 21.6% zinc oxide
- 2 hours water resistant
- has vitamin E
SunSense Sensitive Invisible SPF 50+
- $10.95 AUD per 75 g ($0.15 per g)
- 15% zinc oxide
- 4 hours water resistant
- has 3% niacinamide
Invisible Zinc Face & Body SPF 50
- $19.99 AUD for 75 g ($0.27 per g)
- 25% zinc oxide
- 2 hours water resistant
Protection Level
The most important thing about sunscreen is protection, and all three deliver well here. In Australia, SPF labelling regulations classify sunscreen into brackets, which is why they all have round SPF numbers. SPF 50 means SPF 50-60, while SPF 50+ is the highest classification allowed, and means at least SPF 60. In my opinion anything above SPF 30 is acceptable for daily use, so these all work.
Interestingly, the lowest zinc oxide content (15% for SunSense) also gives the highest protection, which goes to highlight how you can’t predict SPF protection from the ingredients alone, since a billion other factors go into protection level (inactive ingredients, how the sunscreen formula’s processed, zinc oxide particle size, antioxidant content etc.).
All three have broad spectrum protection, which in Australia means that the UVA protection is at least 1/3 of the SPF, and it passes the critical wavelength test which means the longer UVA wavelengths are substantially protected.
All three are also water resistant. SunSense has the highest rating (4 hours), while Neutrogena and Invisible Zinc have 2 hour water resistance.
Texture
SunSense Sensitive Invisible has THE nicest texture I’ve tried in a physical sunscreen. It’s a little thicker than my favourite organic sunscreens, but it’s better than a lot of organic sunscreens I’ve tried. It feels a bit like a moisturiser.
Unfortunately, the Neutrogena and Invisible Zinc sunscreens are way more disappointing. Neutrogena Sheer Zinc is thick, sticky and hard to spread, and the feeling didn’t go away when I put make-up on top. Invisible Zinc managed to be even worse, plus it smelt like sunscreen, which was surprising since I always assumed that the “sunscreen smell” was from the organic filters.
Removal
SunSense seemed to come off reasonably easily despite the higher water resistance – after a thorough wipedown with a wipe it didn’t feel like any residue was left. Neutrogena was a bit harder to remove, and there was still a bit of a tacky feeling after wiping. Invisible Zinc again fared the worst – despite wiping thoroughly, my skin still had a squeaky film on top, which didn’t go away until after three rounds of cleansing.
Pore Clogging
I couldn’t bring myself to use all the sunscreens for a week like I usually do for a pore clogging test, but the SunSense gave me a few clogged pores after a week (pretty standard for me and sunscreens – sunscreen formulas almost always clog my pores after a week of use unless I’m ruthless with exfoliation).
The big surprise was that Invisible Zinc managed to give me clogged pores after only 6 hours of use, which has never happened to me with any other product before. I’m sure it doesn’t do this for a lot of people, but this sunscreen just seems to hate my skin, and annoyingly Australian sunscreens don’t usually have full ingredient lists so I have zero clue what’s going on.
White Cast
What you came here for: the white cast photos.
I often don’t trust reviews of white cast – so many people underapply sunscreen even when they’re trying to apply sunscreen liberally, and the number of sunscreen reviews from bloggers that say “a little goes a long way” makes me side-eye so hard I get a cramp. Sunscreen underapplication is a sin, guys – SPF scales linearly with the amount you apply, and applying small amounts means you’re likely to get patchy protection due to skin’s ridgey texture.
You’re meant to apply 2 mg per square centimetre, which for me means I need around 0.76 g of sunscreen to get 2 mg per square centimetre (as determined using tape in this video).
The other issue with white cast reviews is that a lot of people mention that the white cast goes away with rubbing. Unfortunately rubbing too much reduces sun protection, so once I spread the sunscreen on my face evenly I stop.
My methodology:
I weighed out 0.76 g of each sunscreen onto plastic ziplock bags on my scales, and applied each one to my face with a single finger and minimal rubbing. Then after about ten minutes, I removed the sunscreen from the right half of my face with a make-up remover wipe as thoroughly as I could without my face getting too irritated.
The reason I did it this way instead of just applying half this amount to half my face is because I wasn’t confident that I’d be applying the sunscreen to my face as evenly as possible if I was just aiming for half my face.
I used three different lighting conditions to try to get an idea of how it would look in different situations, and tried to make them as consistent as possible. My phone camera tends to amplify the white cast slightly, so keep that in mind. My skin is NC20 in MAC foundation shades.
Indirect sunlight next to a window
Indoor shade (unfortunately didn’t realise the focus was off in the Neutrogena pic until later)
Fluorescent lightbox
Again, SunSense wins, with Neutrogena and Invisible Zinc falling behind (Neutrogena was a bit better than Invisible Zinc). Interestingly, it seems like the more zinc oxide there is in the sunscreen, the worse it performs in all areas, so I think sunscreen companies should really focus on playing around with the formula to get higher protection with lower amounts of zinc oxide (which I realise is much easier said than done, but hey, that’s my job).
Verdict
SunSense pretty much wins in all respects here. I rarely get such a one-sided comparison where one product just blows the others out of the water, but that’s what happened here. I’m not mad at the result at all – SunSense is produced by Ego Pharmaceuticals, an Australian company and invests in research and partners with dermatologists to educate consumers. They’re also the most affordable option.
Are you a physical/inorganic sunscreen fan? What’s your favourite sunscreen?
Products were provided for editorial consideration, which did not affect my opinion. This post also contains affiliate links – if you decide to click through and support Lab Muffin financially (at no extra cost to you), thank you! For more information, see Disclosure Policy.
Ola says
Thank you soooooooo much Michelle for this review….please consider making this a series.I don’t trust random online sunscreen reviews as well for the same reasons “a little goes a long way”😑 so whenever I want to try a new sunscreen I just go to the pharmacy and purchase whatever looks interesting and worth trying out 🤷.
Jill says
“…once I spread the sunscreen on my face evenly I stop.”
Quoted for truth! Create a barrier layer, it’s not a product to be rubbed in. I think it’s easy to forget that. Your articles explaining how this stuff works certainly helps as a reminder.
Once I apply I’ll go finish getting dressed, do my hair and brush my teeth. By then it’s dry and I can continue on with my makeup. For my commute home from work at the end of the day I dust some powdered sunscreen on my face, easy enough.
Thanks for your articles, can’t wait to read more.
Lisa says
I’m very acne-prone myself, and I got huge zits after 6-10 hours of using the Skinfood Aloe Watery Sun No Sebum suncreen. On paper, it seems pretty harmless, but dang there’s something in it my skin doesn’t fancy!
I am guessing it might be something similar with the Invisible Zinc sunscreen (although I didn’t check it on COSDNA).
Kitty says
I have very oily T-zone and acne prone skin. My U-zone is often dehydrated, but I rarely got zits on my cheeks. All waterproof sunscreen clogs my pores and breaks me out. Recently I read from a blog that the waterproof film former, acrylate, may be the culprit. Acrylate in suncreen / foundation is like a plastic wrap on the skin, preventing sebum from leaving the pores and therefore, clogging the pores. I check the ingredient list of the products which give me breakouts, and they all contain some form of acrylate. Other silicone-based film formers are fine to me though.
Skinfood Aloe watery sun no sebum suncreen:
Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer is somewhere near the middle of the ingredient list.
Could not find the ingredient list of the Invisible zinc SPF50 suncreen, but the SPF30 one has Styrene/acrylates copolymer in the second half of the ingredient list.
Lauren says
You mention that sunscreen formulas seem to give you clogged pores (did you mean “physical”/inorganic ones, specifically??). I cannot seem to find a “physical”/inorganic sunscreen that doesn’t give me clogged pores and increase cystic acne (which I am very prone to). However, I have also never found a “chemical”/organic sunscreen that I do not react to in some way (from serious redness/rash-type bumps, to more minor but persistent rash-type bumps). I live in Canada, so unfortunately some of the organic filters that you mention in your other videos are less available here, or always seem to be combined with other ingredients that I know my skin doesn’t like (denatured/SD alcohol, silicones).
It is so frustrating! I am really trying to get into the habit of applying sunscreen 365 days a year, but it is so hard to put something on your face every day that you know is exacerbating acne or causing some kind of allergy/reaction.
I am a fairly regular user of salicylic acid, but this doesn’t seem to help enough in terms of relieving clogged pores that result from physical/inorganic sunscreen for me. Any tips? Do you rotate sunscreens a lot to avoid major problems that might come from one type or another? Do you just accept a certain amount of pore clogging/irritation, etc.?
Sorry for my long rant-y comment/question! I am just really struggling with this and am always desperately searching for the right sunscreen :).
Erin says
I’ve been happy with some in the past that combined zinc oxide with inorganic ingredients, so the zinc oxide percentage could be lower. Then I discovered European and Asian inorganic sunscreens, and those didn’t really measure up anymore. Even on my super pale self (I look kinda like a ghost), anything purely organic has been really nasty looking. Don’t even get me started on how awful they all look on my black son. Inorganic sunscreen is the greatest thing ever created. Sorry, zinc oxide. I tried to like you.
Aija says
I always worry when the sunny half of the year approaches (where I live UV index in winter is a flat zero), and my skin starts needing sun protection. I want to stay young looking forever, and I’ve heard that sunscreen helps to prevent oxydation and thus protects from acne… yet I’m still looking for a sunscreen that wouldn’t clog my pores. Skin is always looking worse by the end of the day. I swear can feel how hard it is for skin to breathe through that sticky mask. 😛
End of rant.
P.S. A question! If I apply a minimal amount of something with spf 50+, would that become like a sufficient, evenly diffused spf 20, or does it mean it’s just going to be patchy like a mesh – some parts get covered, others not (if that makes sense)?
Lorna says
Thank you for doing this. I’m extremely allergic to sunscreen chemicals. So far I haven’t had a problem with zinc. I’m looking forward to seeing how SunSense goes for me.
Lamia says
Hello Michelle, very interesting review. Like every body I’m trying to find the saint graal. I know that you prefer the chemical sunscreen that’s why it’s very kind of you for making this review. Actually I have bought waaay too much sunscreens but I’m sure that eventually I will find the right one for me. Like everyone the white cast is the big issue. I’m currently using for 2 days now Canmake Mermaid, it is really fantastic, no white cast and no shiny face, it has a satin mat finish. So I keep this one for sure.
I’ve bought today Bioderma Photoderm Aquafluid tinted spf 50 with the Tinosorb technologie. I will try it tomorrow. So I wanted to have your thoughts about these filters. I heard that these are excellent.
Thanks for your answer and have a great day!
Omi says
How greasy and oily was the Sunsense one though? Did it dry matte?
sarah says
How do you know for sure that the sunscreen is off your face? I kept reading people telling that there is still residue of sunscreen after they wash their face, but I don’t really understand what kind of residue is that. Can you explain? Thank you.
Fiona says
Thanks Michelle for the detailed review and photos, they’re really helpful. May I ask how the texture of this Sunsense Sensitive Invisible product compares to the SunSense Anti-Ageing Face SPF 50+ (untinted) that you mentioned in an older post (https://labmuffin.com/sunscreen-review-cetaphil-bioderma-elucent/)? If I’m not mistaken, you mentioned that the untinted one had better texture than the tinted one so I’m interested how the untinted one compares with the one mentioned in above post.
Lucía says
Hi Michelle,
I love reading your posts, they’re so thorough! I live in Spain, and I’ve been recently testing inorganic sunscreen. I’m currently using one mineral by Heliocare, a Spanish laboratory which is very well considered in Europe. It leaves a white cast, but there aren’t many physical choices here. I also have the Australian Gold tinted mineral sunscreen, but haven’t used it enough to give an opinion.
I have rosacea, and I’d love you could make a post about this condition which drives me crazy. Thanks.
Connie says
I’m truly desperate to find a face sunscreen that will work for my very (and I do mean VERY) oily, acne-prone, sensitive skin. For reference, I use Bare Minerals foundation make up on top of any sunscreen. I simply can’t afford to spend $50 on a tube of sunscreen either. Is there any help for me???
Anastasia says
Hello Michelle,
I had so much hope that inorganic sunscreens don’t clog pores so much as organic ones do, unfortunately miracle didn’t happen. I am ready to deny using sunscreens at all!
Sam says
I hate white cast so I’ve switched to chemical/organic sunscreens. But thank you for this thorough review!